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If you want and LED on STATE, use a 330 to pin STATE J1pin6. The little blue module on the right photo above is the bucking supply, 10- 40vdc in and 9v out. Q1 turns on when the RN is low, this gates the LOW to the UNO MCU.
(you don't need an extra LED as the D2 flashes an unique code on connections.) If you want both, install the 300 ohm and LED then add a 10k resistor to pin 6 and monitor that way. The car can have wide inputs ranges, including spikes, I have protection for that too. Under that white label above is a (again) Bluecore chip (BC417? I then added this circuit, between RN transmitter TX (weak) and in to UNO receiver RX. when RN41 goes to 3v logic state the Q1 turns off and the drain floats, and floats to 5v via, R4. The 2N7000 (28cents) is very easy to find discrete part, and easy to solder, by humans. I use a 10k ohm resistor on my CMD pin, so that when booting my Arduino, it never grounds pin 34 ever as she boots(a very bad thing) [ side note: if you load and run the wrong sketch (code) into the arduino , or grab one loaded already with the wrong program and it sets 0v to the PIO pins, you may blow up the RN41, so easy to do that....] BC417 datasheet. (and old funky ECU, on PURPOSE) My test bed is a double worst case, by design.
) and with custom RN programming (features and protocol); Class 1 device too. In many cases it works, but not all, and is marginal. The Atmel processor needs this 3.0 VIH The FIX is easy. (unlike many SMD parts, sorry no SMD labs here...) SMD=tiny Surface mounted devices. Under the white sticker and SST Faraday shield, lays a CSR chip. But the ELM bluetooth, uses the most crude chips ($Cheap$) to do the interface.
100meter range with both devices master and slave Class1. The Atmel data sheet states on page 313 , VIL = 30% of VCC. so I must drive lows below 1.5v and above 3.0v, at 5v. see foot note 1 in the data sheet, A cheap fix is here. (inside) Recap: I have RX on the RN41 protected with a Shockley diode and the TX in to the RX of the Arduino level shifted by the above circuit. The biggest pit fall, is the ELM translator, and ECU. ( I solved that , see my code ,under RN41) The total lack of hardware hand shake, called CTS/RTS. The ELM can not be used blindly, (it has no Xon/Xoff hand shake protocol ,hex 13/11) either. I had to create that is, I parsed all ELM responses and set traps to find out ,where it is AT and what it is doing NOW! I made a conscious effort to get the ECU/ELM to mess up and made my code react correctly.
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The transformer supplies the needed zero crossing detector signal rules on the ECU .
This page in no way , allows or helps or EPA, in fact it does just the opposite, it fails EVERYTHING, and is/was my goal. (my only goal, was to make the most posssible DTC errors, on the bench.) To test sensors and scan tools and scan meters. ) 0 I'm making one, with my 2nd , and this standard logger shield from MCM , using any Arduino A/D input This log device, you can measure voltage, at a great rate of speed and log the voltage and time stamp, each logged value, to the SD memory card.
No body will break in to my car and steal , my 7 Segment LED. (by Seeed) The SEEED was the most hard to get working, due to horrible documentation. There are 3 protocols: ALL 6 pin cards, with no base board protection are not 5volt input safe at all, for sure not RX. This setup connects in 1second now, every time I apply power, 30 times in a row , tested now.
The Bluetooth (I reverse engineered that, and got that to work. The 4 errors are in the ELM book, what I found out, is how they come in to play and more importantly , for HOW LONG the events take ..seconds.. (you get a short list of 15 instructions, but do show connecting a SEEED to a SEEED, well) Here is my working SEEED code, 100% up. I think all 3 devices have the same CRS Blue Core4, BC417~ chip hardware, but each brand device ,has different firmware. The max is 3.7v (3.3vdd .4v) { if VDD is lower, so is max input! The best R3/R4 is 8k/16K, as the chip maker states. I have DIP sw3 enabled for auto connect, if using the cheaper RN41 with no such switch, connect a 10k ohm resistor from PIO6 pin to 3v (high) this causes master auto connect mode #3 to happen.
) That slope is the transformer recovering from Saturation, cool huh? I first wired up the ECU directly with soldered on wires, tacked on , to prove I could do this. Once I saw spark and injection wake up, I made my nice box.
I did not make a schematic sorry, But ,the Sensors are all running (not CRANK) off 5vdc.
", well, that depends on what battery technology (of 6 ) you use. Goal 2: Not blow up the chips, I see many (vast) web sites, just throw together parts, then wonder why it dies a week later, or 1 day.
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